I was at Fujiya’s film section in Nakano. The camera selection wasn’t very exciting. Someone told me that Kitamura might have what I’m looking for. After a few turns and a narrow staircase up, I found myself looking at an entire shelf of old cameras and lenses marked as junk.
A whole row of 50 and 55mm Takumars was lying there. Most were in pretty bad condition. But one stood out: the aperture blades had oil stains, and there was a lot of yellowing1. But apart from that it was so clean I could barely see any dust. It was just 4400 yen. How could I say no?
1 Happens a lot to the radioactive Takumars, and supposedly reversible.
With a X-T30 II in hand, I asked if they had any M42 to Fujifilm X adapters. You might try your luck at Fujiya’s junk section, the clerk assisting me said. I ran back to Fujiya. Amazingly, it was the only adapter they had in the shop. I ran to Kitamura again, put the adapter on, and tried the lens. It worked amazingly well: yellowing is nothing but a white balance issue for digital cameras. I boarded the train east with the fastest lens I owned thus far: the Super-Takumar 50mm f1.4.
The Lens
The lens is certainly one of the more famous Takumars, and you’ll find a lot of reviews online. It’s amazingly built, yet not too heavy at 230g. With an additional adapter (mine is 130g) it becomes heavy for an APS-C lens, but still the balance with my X-T30 doesn’t feel off. With focus assist on modern mirrorless, manual focusing was surprisingly easy: by the second day I was ambitious enough to start tracking moving objects.
For most models, you can see a number on the back of the manual/auto switch, which controls the automatic stop-down pin for aperture. Mine says 38701, and is a 7-element version of the Super-Takumar. It is said to be a simplification of the earlier, much more rare 8-element verion. The later multi-coated version supposedly has better flare control, as well as an additional protruding at the mount that communicated with the camera (like the SP F) for open-aperture metering. You can find more info here.
Shooting
I enjoyed bokeh and the amount of light it lets in at F1.4. But wide open it also softens a lot: your pictures will be fine if there’s not much contrast. With any light source or bright reflections, however, there’ll be a big glowing, dreamy bloom around any bright area.
Stopping down to F2 makes that blooming a lot more controlled. You also start seeing hexagon-shaped bokehs and six-pointed sunstars — the lens has 6 (non-rounded) aperture blades. I liked it a lot!
All of the following pictures are shot at F2.
At even smaller apertures, the lens seems to be perfectly capable of resolving 24MP2: nail the focus, and you’ll get sharp images down to the last pixel. Having shot quite a bit with the XC15-45mm kit lens, this was quite shocking. It’s also a good street photography lens: at F11 and F16 the depth of field is so large that the hyperfocal distance3 is just a few meters, so it barely needs any focusing for most scenes. If you choose to open up, though, you still get a lot of light for the night and beautiful bokehs.
2 Well, my Fujifilm has a 24MP sensor, so I can’t tell you much beyond that
3 Something I probably will never learn if I didn’t start playing with manual lenses
The lens certainly has a lot of the vintage lens “character”: I’m still not sure I love the blooming, which is probably what a lot of people describe as “dreamy”. And there are certainly subtle style differences from modern lenses. But the other great thing about having “character” is how you interact with it: after using this lens, I learn its quirks, which then become additional dimensions you can tweak about your photography. In terms of how fun it is to shoot, it certainly tops any “modern” lens.
And, did I mention this? $30 for beautifully built 50mm F1.4 lens with so much history. Having used this lens for a bit now, I’m perfectly happy paying multiples of this amount. Turning the focus and aperture rings feels so nice I’d buy it even just as a fidget toy.
Afterwords: Yellowing
When I initially got the lens, its yellowing made it 1300K warmer compared to a modern lens. After laying it in direct sunlight4 for a few days, and after finding an UV light in the basement, leaving it with the UV light, now the yellowing has reduced a lot — I’d say it’s a few hundred K at most. Now it’s completely usable without adjusting white balance. Kitamura definitely jumped the gun marking this as junk. Their loss, my gain.
4 A lesson learned: remove plastic lens caps, as they will melt when getting focused on by the lens under direct sunlight.